Monday, February 23, 2009

Adventures in Chianti and tales of a European car rental


This is not a postcard.

The highlight of the wonderful week I spent with my mom was our journey into Chianti. We rented a car in the center, and upon the advice of my friends we drove towards Volpaia. There are apparently two Volpaia's in Italy, and of course our little GPS directed us to the "other" one. What you all must first understand is that it is impossible to drive in the historical center of Firenze. They have zones where cars cannot enter unless you have a special pass to do so, and if you do, you risk a heavy fine. Out of fear of crossing into this zone I ended up circling the area around the Cascine (the Florentine version of Central Park) four times, and then ended up on the Autostrada. Upon entering the Autostrada I knew immediately that we were not headed in the right direction, as our trip to Chianti was supposed to consist of winding roads through the countryside, not a 4 lane highway.
For those of you who know me well, you know the story I am about to tell you is very typical me. My friend sent me to have a nice lunch at the Osteria del Volpaia, upon arrival in Volpaia with our stomachs rumbling, we find that everything is closed. Everything. This is, we later learn, a combination of it being "ferie" (holiday, isn't it always) and that high season begins in March, which means everyone is on their own schedule and open when they feel like it.
We drive along into Radda, a medieval village where everything is closed, and stumble upon a restaurant. I run through the open door in desperation and say "aperto?" and this kind young man says, "yes, come in!" My mom points out that the restaurant says closed and that their hours are until 2PM. We arrive at 3:30. He later explains to me that he was having his friends over for lunch and he could not turn my mom and I away at the door. He prepared our meal while he enjoyed his, with his friends. We had eggplant lasagna, filetto di manzo con funghi porcini, and gnocci with gorgonzola - mom's favorite. 
Of course it didn't end there. Creme brulee (we ate it too quickly for it to be photographed but believe me, it was delicious) and left to right: acqua naturale, cafe doppio, Bailey's, Italian grappa, Austrian red grappa, Bailey's, red wine (Chianti, in case I needed to state the obvious!)
We got back into Firenze at 6:50, right before Avis was closing and just before the zone is open to people without permits. I am fairly certain that I crossed into the "zone" at about 6:58PM, but I guess I will find out if and when my Avis bill arrives in the mail.. but knowing the Italians, I am fairly certain I have nothing to worry about.

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