I know you all find it hard to believe that I am still in school so here is the proof. Last week I was at Lineapelle in Bologna doing leather research and meeting with tanneries while school was closed for Easter break. I am finally beginning to have more flexibility in selecting the styles I want to produce, so this week I chose something more "morbido," soft, which is more casual and closer to my personal style. For those of you who cannot bear to hear one more technical detail... scroll to the bottom now.
I made a zippered inside pocket using a different technique from the previous styles. Since this bag has a little less structure, the pocket is looser and hangs in the lining instead of being right up against the backside of the bag.
Believe it or not, I did this (what looks like a very simple piece) three times to get it right. First I glue down the lampo, zipper, to the "marmo," marble, in order to make sure it is taught before I attach it to the "fodera," lining. Then I attach a piece of Salpa 6 (the yellow rectangular shape on the top) and wrap the edges of the fodera around from the other side to create a finished edge. The zipper is then inserted into that space, and I take it to the sewing machine to stitch it down...
You don't need me to tell you what happens next. Twice. That zipper foot was slipping and sliding all over the zipper so I taught myself a new way of sewing to get this done properly: cucire senza guida: sewing without the guide. For those of you who are sewing machine friendly don't think I gave up all hope. I reversed the stitch direction and used the foot as a guide instead of the actual guide. For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, just know that I succeeded in doing it properly.
This is the inside of the bag before inserting the lining. I put in an additional layer of "cartone nero fine," fine black paper, to give it more structure on the backside. Although this was not on the original pattern, adjustments like these are often made in the bag-making process. Details such as this depend on the type of skin being used for the bag, so it is not necessarily a universal component that would be included on the pattern.
My favorite part of this bag is the strap. I made it adjustable, so it can be worn on the shoulder or slung across the body in a messenger style. When it is fully extended, the snaps hold it in place in the center. When I slide it to make it half it's full length, the snaps attach at either end. If this sounds confusing, there are visuals at the bottom.
This is snap application 101. First I punch holes in the strap that correspond in size to the particular part of the snap (we refer to them as the female or masculine part), and then the pieces are inserted into their respective positions in this vice. The small bronze canister-looking components are different measurements and depend on the size of the part of the snap you are inserting. When I turn the handle, the vice squeezes them into place.
My sewing is getting better by the day... although it's still not quite perfect. Don't be fooled - there is a reason you can only see one side of this strap! Just kidding, I did a pretty good job with this one. I think I was just having a series of good days and some quality sleep.
The interior features two open pockets and the zippered pocket against the back.
The finished product against the stunning backdrop of my glue-filled apron.
I am willing to put these photos up to emphasize how cool I think the strap is. As my Italian friends would say, "sono secchione." Another Tuscan phrase I picked up from my friends. Ask me later what it means.
Stay tuned... Next week I choose the style of bag I want to create from start to finish. I will create the pattern from scratch, select all leather, lining and hardware, and make the bag.
Also coming soon: vita pelle in italiano.
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