Mi first zipper... and my first big mistake.

Here are the new pattern pieces for my next handbag. This style is slightly more structured than the previous style, and I will also complete three of the same. While making three of the same style might sound daunting, it allows me to work with different materials to familiarize myself with the behaviour of different types of leather. For this particular style I chose black leather (again), black suede (again), and red lambskin. When I use suede or a garment weight leather like the lambskin, I have to cut two of each pattern piece and glue an additional layer to each to give it more substance. This allows the leathers to pass through the machines without getting "mangiato = eaten" as I like to say. 

The first stage of inserting a zipper is gluing the zipper to the salpa. I honestly had no idea how much "mastice," or glue, was involved in the process. Every single seam has glue on both parts. So for example, I will describe the seam where I apply the zipper. First I put mastice on the salpa and the fodera (lining) and glue them together. Then, I put mastice on the zipper and the salpa, and glue them together. You can see above there is a very specific angle in which you must turn the zipper in order to prevent it from being too visible when you open the pocket. In order to do this I had to re-mastice the zipper, applying glue to the end of the zipper tape and the salpa. I will add more photos later so you can see the final product of the zippered pocket.

And here we have it, my very first mistake. I think my head was elsewhere when my instructor Mao was walking me through this part of the process. Each bag has 2 of each of the pattern piece you see above, which make the "fianco," gusset, for the bags. Each piece required me to do the following: Cut 2 in leather, which actually meant 10 pieces in total, since the lamb and suede require that I cut double. Cut 2 of each in fodera (lining), 6 total. The suede and lamb requiring double thickness must be glued together with the "lattice" (spray glue machine). Then, all of the leather pieces must pass through the spaccatrice (to make them thinner and more pliable), then the scarnatrice (to trim the edges to prepare for rimbocare, wrapping). Then, the fodera and leather component must be glued together (with the mastice, not to be confused with the lattice spray glue). Finally I would cut the CORNER EDGES of the fodera and leather "preciso preciso" in order to prepare these pieces to properly attach to the other pieces of the bag.

Before I continue with the devastating turn of events, I want to pause to explain why the term "preciso preciso" is very important. When we begin to cut pattern pieces the patterns have a small margin of error built into them. Some of the pieces have two pattern pieces, the first to cut the materials, and the second to cut "preciso preciso". While all of the pattern pieces are cut from the same modello, there is a chance that after cutting the leather or the salpa of one of the bags, my hand or the material might slip caushing a 1mm, or 0.5mm deviation from the original. At each stage of the process, you begin to work more directly with the pieces you are cutting, rather than the pattern. As the bag progresses, you might make minor adjustments to the piece upon which you are working, while referring back to the modello only as a guide. When Mao tells me to cut "preciso preciso" it means to pay great attention to the pieces to make sure that the lining and leather, for example, are exactly the same, that there is no room for error and I have to take care to not make a mistake. 

Well. Wouldn't you know it, while my head was in orbit, I accidentally cut the entire perimeter of every piece of the fianco, (which in hindsight, makes no sense, as this leaves no material to connect these pieces to the other components), instead of the CORNER EDGES ONLY. This meant that I had to repeat the entire process I outlined above. This was an entire half day of work and I was absolutely miserable, but this is my (second, if you've been following my blog regularly) gentle reminder to always focus on what I am doing. I promised myself I will not make the same mistake twice... or 12 times, as the case may be. 

ACCIDENTI!